Wednesday, January 7, 2009

The Coffee-House: A Cultural History by Markman Ellis

The Coffee-House: A Cultural History by Markman Ellis

'They have in Turkey, a Drinke called Coffa, made of a Berrt of the same name, as Blacke as a Soot, and of a Strong Scent, but not Aromaticall; Which they take, beaten into a powder, in Water, as Hot as they can Drink it; And they take it, and they sit in thier Coffa-Houses, which are llike our Tavernes. This Drinke comforteth the Braine, and Heart, and helpeth Digestion'
Francis Bacon - Sylva Sylvarum: or a Naturall Historie (1627)

This is a fascinating book about the rise of the Coffee-House in the UK.
As the Preface states 'Caffeine is the most widely used drug in the world ...(it's) value...surpassed only by oil' (pxi)
The book traces the history of the coffee-house from George Sandy's discovery of them in Constantinople in 1610, to Thomas Hodges opening of the first coffee-house in London sometime before 1654, to modern coffee chains like Starbucks and Costa.
It describes in detail the height of the coffee-house era in the 17th and 18th centuries when men would gather and socialise, conduct business, and philosophise about life. How coffee houses were often located close to areas frequented by 'ladies of pleasure'.
In the 19th century coffee-houses were in decline in the UK, Henry James noting in 1877 a lack of 'cafe society' which was still thriving elsewhere. In fact it is at this time that the British taste for tea became more popular, especially as it was easier to brew.
Only after the second world war did coffee once again increase in popularity in the UK probably, the author suggests, due to the fact that it had been rationed for so long. With the introduction of the first espresso machines from the continent, new coffee houses spread throughout the country in the mid 50's, once again providing meeting places for people of all ages.
The book concludes with the recent rise of coffee chains such as Starbucks, Nero's etc., and how these have become part of our every day lives and language.

Well written and researches, this is a fascinating book, not only about coffee but about British social history too.

2 comments:

Beth F said...

Nice review! Thanks. I'm such a coffee freak (does that make me a drug addict?), I really should learn more of my favorite drink and flavor.

Rachel said...

This review certainly makes me want to read this book. I have added it to my (exceedingly long) books to be procured list.